The Juan de Fuca Marine Trail on Vancouver Island begins at the other end of the town of Port Renfrew from the West Coast Trail, effectively continuing it for another 47 kilometers, going from Botanical Beach to China Beach. The Juan de Fuca trail is directly across the Juan de Fuca Strait from the Olympic Mountains in the U.S. state of Washington. It is not as long as the West Coast Trail, but does have its own challenges. And of course, the terrain and climate are a bit different, giving the trail its own unique character. Access, the crowd hiking the trail, communication, travel difficulty, length, and the sights along the way are some of the main considerations for deciding to hike this trail.
ACCESS
The trail is accessible from either end and from several locations along the way. Highway 14 runs along the coast just above the trail, sometimes within a few hundred meters. The proximity of the highway makes this a very versatile hiking destination. Two main mid-locations are Sombrio Beach and Parkinson Creek. Sombrio Beach is a favorite surfing location for Victorians and others living in the southern part of Vancouver Island. They can often be seen arriving after 4:00 pm for an evening of surfing. There is also access from the highway connected to most campsites along the eastern end, although there is no specific parking available. Hikers are now paying $10 a night to camp at walk-in sites, and $3 per day to park in the lots.
THE CROWD
Many locals hike the trails regularly because they enjoy the park. Because it is so accessible, it is frequently used. Sombrio Beach and Bear Beach have regular surfers, with Sombrio getting quite crowded at times. The crowds are not just surfers and hikers. Sombrio especially attracts young people looking for a place to run amok. Long weekends are not the best time to go because of these crowds. Recent years have seen Sobrio crowds of over 500 people on long weekends. Unfortunately, the easy access creates the crowded, rowdy atmosphere that BC Parks is trying to reduce. Even the further afield sites can be quite crowded on long weekends, even though access is more difficult. Mostly, the more difficult access brings people who are more interested in the experience of nature than anything else. Many locals clean up Sombrio after the long weekends. These people are true heroes.
COMMUNICATION
Related to access, communication is a big issue in the wilderness. Cell phones work along the way, but usually only for emergencies. Some network access is possible from the eastern end, but usually through U.S. networks, which have a nice roaming charge attached. The town of Jordan River and Port Renfrew are at either end of the trail, or near, so phone access is relatively easy. Satellite phone access is easy from the beaches, but may be problematic in denser forested areas. VHF marine radio is also a possibility, although technically, for use on the water.
TRAVEL DIFFICULTY
When compared to the West Coast Trail, this trail is generally easier, although sections can be just as challenging as the most difficult sections of the West Coast Trail. The most difficult sections run from the China Beach Trailhead to Sombrio Beach. The 11 to 12 kilometers from Bear Beach (depending on your campsite) to Chin Beach are the most strenuous because of having to travel up and down over small stream outlet valleys. The trail is quite good, with little blow down and travel over large root system. The last kilometer approaching Sombrio Beach from the east is also quite strenuous because of the mud and terrain. West of Sombrio, the terrain is relatively flat and the hiking is fast, although there can be a lot of mud, depending on the time of year. Beyond its own beauty, the Juan de Fuca Trail can be a good training ground for doing the West Coast Trail or North Coast Trail.
LENGTH
One of the great features of the Juan de Fuca Trail is its versatility. Really good day hikes are possible here, as well as a committed, 5-day backpacking trip. Everything in between is also possible. A one or two night traverse can be made by leaving a car at one of the access points and taking a second car to a trail head, then hiking the trail between, for example, hiking from China Beach to Bear Beach, or Bear Beach to Chin Beach. The ability to hike out quickly to the highway makes this trail unique because hikers can get a good traverse hike in with minimal logistics. The access point also allow the trail to be broken up into several different sections and hiked separately.
SIGHTS
The climate and terrain of the Juan de Fuca Trail is different from the West or North Coast Trails. Along the Juan de Fuca, you get to commune with the eagles, river otters, and martens. There are often bears along the trail as well, but they should be avoided. The beaches are a mix of cobblestone and sand. Sea stacks, sea caves along the cliffs, rock shelves with tide pools at low tides, and stands of cedar and spruce are common. Cruise ships ply the waters of the Juan de Fuca Strait, with their lights passing in the night. The snow-capped, giants of the Olympic Mountains are visible to the east and south. The seclusion of the non-trailhead beaches gives a great wilderness experience while still being just a short hop away from a main highway.
The Juan de Fuca Marine Trail is one of the major coastal hikes in BC. It is a traverse that compares to its sister trails, the West Coast Trail and the North Coast Trail, but with its own unique character. It is one of the most accessible trails on Vancouver Island, with many access points along its length, giving it tremendous versatility. With this versatility, the length can be tailored to fit one's needs and time frame. Hiking the Juan de Fuca Trail can be done in sections or all at one go as a good 5 day backpacking trip. All told, this is a great trail that should not be missed.
Gary Ward has been leading trips and teaching in wilderness areas for 20 years. Having traveled from desert to sea, he spends most of his time now in coastal areas, exploring the boundary between land and sea, land and sky, and sea and sky.
He can be found leading tours on the Juan de Fuca Trail, teaching, and writing for his business, Coastal Bliss Adventures.
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